Gaps in Floorboards: Normal, Fixable, or a Problem?
Every board floor has gaps. The question is which kind.
Why boards gap
Timber is hygroscopic -- it takes on and gives up moisture with the air, swelling and shrinking across the width of each board. A 100mm-wide hardwood board can move a millimetre or more between a humid summer and a heated winter. Multiply by every board in the room and the floor has to breathe somewhere: the gaps. Old floors laid tight in a different climate era, or floors over newly effective heating, show it most.
The three kinds of gap
| What you see | What it is | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Small, even gaps that shrink in summer | Normal seasonal movement | Nothing, or draught-sealing. Managing indoor humidity (40-60%) minimises it -- see the care guide. |
| Consistent gaps that never close | Permanent shrinkage -- boards dried below their laid size over the years | Fill during the next sand and polish if they bother you. Purely cosmetic. |
| Uneven, growing, or localised gapping, especially with cupping or peaking | A moisture or structural problem underneath | Investigate first: subfloor ventilation, leaks, drainage. Cupping guide here. |
Filling, done properly
- Dust-and-resin filler -- the standard method during a sand: the floor's own sanding dust mixed with filler resin, squeezed into the gaps, sanded flush. Perfect colour match by definition. Rigid, so best on gaps up to ~3mm that don't move much.
- Flexible gap fillers -- coloured acrylic/polymer fillers that tolerate some seasonal movement. For gaps that breathe.
- Timber slivers -- for gaps 5mm+, tapered strips of matching timber glued in and sanded flush. The proper fix for big gaps in old baltic floors; labour-intensive and worth it.
Timing matters more than product. Fill when the boards are mid-range or at their most swollen (humid season) -- never at peak winter dryness. Filler installed into fully open gaps gets crushed when the boards come back, and either squeezes out in ridges or stops the boards closing and drives them into peaking.
Draughts and dirt: the other reasons people fill
On old houses with open subfloors, winter draughts through the gaps are real. Options that work without fighting the timber: draught-proofing strips pushed into the gaps from above (removable, invisible once in), sealing the subfloor perimeter, or underfloor insulation between joists. These solve the comfort problem and let the boards keep moving as designed -- often the better play than filling a whole draughty floor rigid.
Gaps bothering you?
Ring with a photo and the board width. We'll tell you whether yours are seasonal or permanent, whether filling makes sense, and what to fill them with -- or what to check under the floor first.
Call 1300 950 551